🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.